• My Own X-Carve Stand/Table Saw Out-Feed Table – Part 1

    I had been dreaming about a “real” CNC for the shop for years and recently say a post on the Inventables Forum on the parts to buy to convert the 500mm X-Carve to a full 100cm version. The instructions seemed complete, the BoM (Bill of Material) was fully populated, and the cost was right, so I jumped in and order the parts. While waiting for my new toys to arrive, I started designing the “perfect” table for the X-Carve in the shop. I decided on a combination stand/tablesaw outfield table because space is NOT limitless in my shop. I spent weeks working out the details – steel frame, wood frame, dimensions, storage, castors or not, and so forth. Then, while minding my own business and with my mind 100miles away from the shop and projects (I was actually thinking politics) as I strolled through my local Walgreens… BLAM! There it was right on the cover of Popular Woodworking – the exact thing I was designing already done for me. In glossy color. I felt the hand of Karma and bought the magazine.

    Fast forward a FEW months (OK, 11…) and I started the project after tweaking and changing the plans just a little to suit my shop space and my own aesthetic. David Lyell’s plans are really good and I have zero bad things to say about them on the whole. There are a couple of typos , but I am the king of typos, so I am not judging. My tweaks are for my use and are in no way a commentary on the Mr. Lyell’s inventiveness. I will Include the original plans and my comments/notes/scribbles/doodles as well.

    Part II of this build will cover drawer construction, finish, and the 1st run of my newly upgraded machine. I will also include a real drawing of my exact build, my BoM, final costing, and cut list with Part II.

    X-Carve: https://www.inventables.com/technologies/x-carve

    Popular WoodWorking: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/cnc-outfeed-table/

    PDF of David Lyell’s PW plans with my markups and design changes (Real drawings linked in Part II of this build): http://mattofmanytrades.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/xcarve-outfeed-build-markups-2-2020.pdf

    Upgrading your X-Carve – First Steps: https://www.inventables.com/technologies/x-carve-upgrade-kit/questions

    X-Carve Forum: https://discuss.inventables.com

  • Building Hat Storage Build for The Closet

    I have a lot of hats. No, a LOT of hats! I am follicly challenged and hats are part of that reality. They end up everywhere – all over the house. My wife finds them and makes grumpy noises. I was assigned a task to build proper hat storage. I procrastinated. My wife made louder grumpy noises. I persisted in my procrastination. My sweet wife started sharpening mental knives – I could see it in her eyes… I built some hat storage for our master bedroom closet. Wife happy now.

    This is the build video of that process including at least 2 huge screw-ups and my fixes for them – SHOW YOUR MISTAKES!

  • Replacing a Cracked Brass Chisel Ferrule


    I was using my Marples mortising chisel and my hand caught a sharp edge. I looked and the brass ferrule was cracked – full thickness and along the whole length. Well, that wouldn’t do!! I grabbed a small piece of one inch left over brass round stock and turned a new thicker, better ferrule on my metal lathe and made the chisel better than new.

    The whole project took about an hour – from me noticing the issue until the repaired chisel went back in the roll. SO Happy to have a metal Lathe and a tiny bit of skill with it.

  • Making a Simple-ish Pine Book Shelf for My Wife

    My wife requested some additional bookshelves for her studio. I put together a set earlier this year, but as mentioned then, she has a LOT of costume, pattern, and fashion books – piles of books and reference material. Her shelves are made of Grade 2 (full of knots) Big Box Lumber Store white pine, with popular face frames, and it took about two hours to cut out all the parts, cut the dados, and an hour to put them together. I had some of the materials and supplies, bringing the total cost of the shelves to about $50.

    My wife is planning on putting two coats of yellow milk paint on them and then two coats of satin spar varnish, sanding lightly between coats, so that these shelves match her previous ones. Originally, she wanted a set of flat panel doors that closed in the bottom shelf, but as I was gluing the first one together, she had a change of heart and there will be no doors…. I will hopefully use the door parts on another project soon.

    The addition of these will give her around thirty liner feet of shelf space in the attic and will house some of the large books and design binders. I added the link below for the measured drawings for the original design of these shelves, the design with the doors and the final design that she settled on. There is a cut list for each option. If you build a version, please let me know.

  • McMaster-Carr is Awesome!

    I just had an exceptional customer service experience and I need to talk about it.  Last week I bought a bag of 5/16” screwmount nuts for the upgraded X-Carve CNC/table-saw out-feed table I am currently building.  I needed them to install the leveling feet.  I THOUGHT that the feet I had were 5/16”-18 and was stoked the McMaster-Carr had exactly what I needed.  I ordered late one night on-line and waiting two days for them to arrive. 

    Last night, I went into the shop to install them and quickly found that the feet were 3/8”-16.  Damn.  I recovered, changed my plans for the evening and moved on to another part of the project.

    This morning I called McMaster-Carr (MM-C) and spoke to a sales rep named Brian, explaining the issue, what parts I needed to swap out, and that this error was completely my fault.  He was great:  Offered to take the 5/16” parts back without a restock fee, credit the original price, charged the original card for the difference in parts, and said that they would be shipped out today.  No fuss or BS, just a smooth transaction. 

    I am not a huge customer for them.  I am a tiny percent of a negative fraction of their sales  – I doubt that your calculator has enough places to calculate my percentage of contribution.  Regardless of this, today I felt like I was an important customer, that they valued my business, and got off the phone and was actually happy.  Made my morning.

    MM-C has saved my butt and saved me cash for years!  They are my go-to for hardware and parts.  I have a copy of their paper catalog in the shop and will use it to quickly find a needed part before I go on-line.  Additionally, I use Fusion360 as one of my 3D CAD tools and the MMC online catalog is linked to that tool.  You can get part drawing .stp files and import them directly into your drawing. They are automatically added to your BOM, and you can roll up costing as you design.  It is a super slick interface and I use it all the time (the MM-C Toolbox for Solidworks functions similarly).

    For this and so many other reasons, I will continue to use McMaster-Carr for everything that I can.

  • Building a Screw and Bolt Organizer

    I keep my metric and stainless hardware, machine screws, and odd ball fasteners in plastic totes (Plano boxes) to keep them separate from all the SAE hardware. The totes have never really had a home and they move from self to surface in the shop and either are in the way or I can’t find the one I need when I need it. Over the New Year’s break from my J-O-B, I screwed together a 3/4” plywood organizer so the totes would have a forever home. The wood was left over from 5+ other projects, so basically scrap, and the screws were taken out of a fence I pulled down last summer. Really happy that this project cost me little to nothing, that I was able to reuse the material, and most importantly I am giddy to have a specific place to organize my organizers.

    The box is held to the wall with a French Cleat. I use them to hang all my cabinet uppers and for mounting heavy stuff to the wall in both the shop and house. They hold really well and it is easy to reconfigure with them.

  • Metal Lathe Set-up

    Part of my shop is set up for machining: welders, a welding table, fabrication tools, a small mill, and a JET 9X20 midi lathe. I am by no means a machinist, BUT I do like to void warranties and I a partial to making/altering my own tools and parts when I can. I have actually moved the lathe around in my shop three times in three years: moving it to access other projects. I needed to make some door bushings for my Jeep and after pricing them out online ($$$) I said ‘screw this, I am turning them myself!’ At the same time a friend asked if he could use my metal lathe to make some pens. Serendipity. I then went on a little accessory buying spree and picked up some tooling, a quick-change tool post bit holders, and other accessories.

    During the process of getting lathe up, running, and tricked out, it became quickly apparent that I was seriously lacking in organization department: There were quick-change tools all over the place, I lost my live center for 2 hours, I kept misplacing my chuck key, and when I started the lathe with my chuck key IN THE CHUCK!!!! I knew that I had to address the mess.

    That last thing is a sackable offense in every machine shop I have ever been in! I ordered a 48”x20” metal ARKO storage bin panel for tool and material organization (I have like 300 of the blue bins – YEAH for dumpster diving!!), and then built a 32” long quick-change tool and tailstock tooling shelf:


    I sourced some remnant 2”x2”x1/8” wall angle iron and stole some 3/4” and 1” pipe from 2 wood working pipe clamps in the shop. I then did a little cutting, some bending, a little atrocious welding, drilled 18+ holes, cleaned, primed, painted (got in trouble for painting in the basement…), and made the Q-C tools holders out of some 1-3/4” aluminum stock left over from my tool board organization build.

    Lastly, with my friend Jake’s help, we set the lathe on a set of 5/16” nylon-bottomed leveling feet and made sure everything was perfectly level and that there was no twist in the bed. The feet made a positive difference in how quiet the machine ran.

  • Letterpress Gauge Holder


    I am a bit of a bookbinding and letterpress nerd. I have searched a year or so for an affordable antique type high gauge for my printing press. There have been a few on e-Bay that I have bid on, but they go for pretty crazy money and I inevitably get outbid. I happened upon an online seller that didn’t know what exactly the little hunk of metal was for and I snapped it right up for less than $20, including shipping. I was happy with the purchase, but when it arrived, I morphed into giddy with excitement. My gauge is perfect – Not a scratch or a ding on it. The printer that had it before me definitely used it, but used it lovingly and sparingly. I pulled out my set of Mitutoyo digital calipers and the jaws were exactly .9180 inches – within spec for Type High to the 10,000th of an inch. YES!!

    In my Underground Lair I have a tool board that organizes my printing, reloading, electronics, and warranty voiding tools (link to the construction video below). The night after my gauge came in the mail, I spent a few minutes drawing and measuring it for a 3D printed tool board mount and then an hour designing it in Fusion360. I am an aerospace engineer at my day J-O-B, so I am fairly quick in 3D. I is gud enginerd…

    After slicing, the print took over 4 hours, but that is because I had 4 layers all around and honeycomb infill – It is my own bee-related neurosis…. It could be done in a couple of hours and be a usable part – I went overboard. However, The gauge fit perfectly in the mount and now resides in its forever home on my tool board, next to the Mitutoyos, in my Lair.

    I posted the design for the mount on Thingiverse if you want one. If you don’t have printer and can’t live without one, drop me a DM and I will work something out for you.

    Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:405…

    Toolboard Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-Pk9…

  • The Honey Harvest

    I had a good honey harvest this year. It was not a record breaking great one, but it was decent. I have only posted one other bee video this year, back in May, and this one is a conclusion to that story.

    Out of a total of six hives I was keeping and 2.5 that I was assisting with, I lost one to chemicals and one to foul brood – in the same bee yard unfortunately. One that I helped with also had a chemical exposure and once again (see previous post), my “Russian Survivor Bees” from Vashion Island were crap. They are still super mean, are not producing honey, and even the split from the first hive is behaving exactly the same way.

    I sourced some sweet little glass honey-bear jars and I had some custom labels printed this year instead of using the generic “HONEY!” labels. I went through Sticker Mule and I need to say that they were perfect!! The artwork was spot on, the size and tolerance was just right, they were fast, and they were the cheapest source I found for that size and quantity in two colors. Their customer service in excellent and they have my business for all my stickers and labels from now on.

  • SawStop Router Table Wing Installation – Double Feature

    After almost three years, I finally installed a cast iron General router table wing on my SawStop table saw. It was not an exact fit and I had to make some serious modifications.  SawStop now makes a counter table wing and router lift that bolts right in, but they didn’t when I bought both the saw and wing. That said, the do-it-yourself option with the General or similar wing and lift is less than 1/2 the cost of the SawStop option.

    I documented the whole overbuilt process in a 2-part YouTube Video series and in part 1 I went over the steps I took getting the wing installed and mounted correctly and the installation of the router lift, plus a few tips. For the second of two videos I detailed the fence installation, the vacuum box and dust collection, and the steps I took in making an over-built cherry and walnut “cutting board” tail piece.